This is an account of my solo hike from Harper’s Ferry, south bound to the Elk Wallow Wayside in Shenandoah National Park, on the Appalachian Trail. Its main purpose is to remind me years from now of my impressions of this little adventure. Fair warning, it is overly detailed and way too wordy. I started on a Saturday evening, 19 July 2014, and ended a week later on Saturday, 26 July 2014, at about noon. I ended up walking 73 trail miles, and I guesstimate about 90 total miles with trips off the trail on purpose and accidental. This was my first solo hike and the longest I had hiked measured by distance or time. I am very lucky to have an understanding wife who let me go out unsupervised. I went into this wanting to give myself a challenge, which it definitely was. I enjoyed it, but if I do something similar again, I will walk less and have more reading time scheduled.
The first day started at my home very early. My wife took me to our regional airport to fly out at 6 am. I had my backpack fully stocked minus my food pack and fuel canister for my stove. I would pick these up along the way. I had taken my backpack, stuffed it into an army duffle bag, and checked it with the airline. I carried with me a knapsack containing the clothes I would change into for my hike and reading material for the trip. I flew to Chicago and by the time I landed and made it to my follow-on flight’s gate, it was time to get on that flight. I flew into Reagan International in DC. Amazingly, my checked bag made it all the way. I was a little stressed that it would get lost. I got my bag and took the DC Metro to Union Station, where I had to wait about four hours for my train. I got to load up on pizza and make conversation with the panhandlers asking me for money. I finally got on my train and arrived at Harpers Ferry at about six pm. I went by the Harpers Ferry Outfitter and picked up my fuel container that I had mailed to them. I filled it with white gas and paid for the fuel. I changed into hiking clothes, packed all my travel stuff into a small box and left it with the outfitter to mail on Monday. I stopped at a local restaurant and got a less than satisfactory meal, but an excellent beer.
After all this, it was around 7:30 and I finally got on the trail. I went by the spoken directions of the outfitter and did not pull out my trail guidebook. It did not take long and I had messed up the directions. I am sure I was given them accurately, but my memory fouled them up. Instead of walking up the embankment to Highway 340, I walked underneath it and went a half mile before I realized my mistake. I figured it out and doubled back. I crossed the Shenandoah River on the Hwy 340 Bridge. As I did, it started to rain fairly steady. It was warm enough that I did not pull out rain gear, but only pulled up my pack’s rain cover. After I crossed the bridge, I started up the hill that takes you out of the valley. It goes about two miles and gains about 900 feet of elevation. It was a good introduction to the trail. It got fairly dark at around the four mile mark, but I was still able to see the trail fairly well. However, it got to the point where I was tripping over rocks and twisted roots were starting to resemble snakes laying in wait. That’s when I pulled out my flashlight for the next mile. I made it to a campsite that was a clearing with a fire ring made out of rock. There were no water sources, but I had plenty with me. There was a tent already there, and they had already bedded down for the night. I tried my best to set up my camp as quiet as possible. I got my hammock and rain fly strung up and, right on schedule, the rain pretty well stopped. I messaged my wife that all was well and got myself to bed. However, as usual, did not sleep well the first night with all the new outdoor noises.
First Day Recap: Four Trail Miles, About one additional mile because of my failure to follow instructions. The only issue was a large blister on the ball of my foot. Four hikers spotted.
I slept in the next day, and woke up to my neighbor packing up. He appeared to be a college kid and had only hiked in for the night. He was not very talkative. (It was my personal observations that people hiking the AT fall into two types. One wants to talk your ear off, and the other will not give you two syllables. I did not see any that fell in the middle.) It took me a while, but I got everything back in my pack. I got out of camp at about 9 am and that turned into a habit the rest of the week. I started walking south. About two miles into my walk, I crossed Keys Gap and Hwy 9. There is the Sweet Springs Convenience Store about .25 miles from the trail on Hwy 9. I walked up to the store, refilled my water, and got my breakfast of biscuits and gravy, hot coffee, and cold chocolate milk. The service there were very nice, so with my stomach completely packed, I continued on. The red raspberries were exploding off the bushes in the area, so I got a bit of fresh fruit, too. The trail is fairly flat along here, and I made good time. About 8.5 miles into the day, I ended up at the Blackburn Trail Center for lunch. If I make it here again for just a break, I will stash my pack on the trail and take down my food and water bladder. The reason is that the guide says that the center is only .2 miles off the trail, but the book does not say that it is straight down. Of course, you have to climb back out. With a full pack, it seemed much further. For this lunch, I had only packed a couple of protein bars and a candy bar. Not a good lunch, but I don’t think my stomach would have taken anything else. I downed these, refilled my water bladder, and headed back up the hill.
I got four more miles of fairly flat, but then I started the section named “The Roller Coaster”. This is a section that goes a little more than 13 miles and is filled with up and downs. Luckily, I was only going about 4 miles into it today. As I went into the hilly section, I started to pay for my crappy nutrition. I was feeling it, but my goal today was to make it to the Bears Den Hostel. At the hostel, the best deal is the hiker’s package. For $30, you get a frozen pizza, a pint of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream, cold soda, hot shower, laundry, bed and all the pancakes you can eat in the morning. Even though I had more snacks packed, and I was getting overly hungry, all I could think of was getting to the hostel and chowing down. I made it to Snickers Gap where I had to cross Hwy 679. I get to 679 and directly across is a post with the familiar white blaze that marks the trail. I crossed the road and there was a trail leading up the road bank at the post. I walked up it and it T’ed into another trail. I used the rule that had worked so far and chose the branch that went up hill. I walked a ways and saw no white blaze. I backed up and tried the other direction. Still no blaze. I looked at the trail and it did not look as well used as the rest of the trail had. I walked back down to the road and could not figure it out. On top of all this, I was starting to feel rather frantic because of my cruddy diet that day. I ended up calling the hostel and seeing if there was something I was missing. As I was describing what I was seeing, I looked down and saw an arrow painted on the pavement directing hikers to head down the highway to the East. I told the hostel staff to hold me a pizza and I would be there in a few minutes. I walked down the road and a bit later, there was a very obvious sign directing me up the hill. Up I went and found my way to the hostel. I got checked in and got my ice cream and Tombstone pizza.
While my pizza was cooking, I devoured the ice cream. It was some sort of toffee bar flavor, and was excellent. I scraped the container clean. I was able to only eat about ¾ of the pizza, but a through hiker was more than happy to finish it off for me after he had finished his. After eating all this and slamming my soda, my belly was very happily swollen. I talked to the staff and picked up my food pack I had mailed from home. With the bear resistance barrel and food, my packed gained 17 pounds. I then headed down to the bunk room in the basement. As I walked down the stairs into this area that was primarily used by through hikers, I get a whiff of BO that gives “funky” a whole new definition. I grab a bunk and there are five us there tonight. I was the only section hiker. Everyone else had been on the trail for months. I get a hot shower and throw my clothes in the washer. It makes me feel tons better. I got my clothes out of the dryer and stretched out on my bed. The last thought I had was that the mattress was a little lumpy and I would have trouble getting to sleep.
Second Day Recap: 16.6 Trail Miles, about an extra mile from my wanderings. I used a polypro sock liner and that seemed to take care of my blister. Other than that, lots of muscle soreness. Around 20 hikers spotted.
I slept soundly until I woke up to the others moving around. I got up and head upstairs and eat my fill of pancakes and drink a couple of cups of coffee. It is raining outside, so I slowly get my stuff together. As I am dragging my feet getting ready, the one hiker that came after me is checking his feet. He had walked a 20+ mile day the day before, with over eight miles on the Roller Coaster. His feet do not look bruised but from just above the toes to the ends of his toes, his feet appear purple. He was getting ready to do it all over again. The rain quits and I head out.
When I get back on the trail, I took a moment to enjoy the view of the Bears Den Rocks and then headed down the trail. I had nine miles of the Roller Coaster left and it was hard. Of course my pack had gained weight as well. The section stays true to its name and goes up and down. This would not be too bad, but the trail is very rocky as well. I could not get a stride going, and my pace was very slow. It was not unusual for a mile to take me 45-50 minutes. At one point, I got myself leaning the wrong way, and I ended up having my pack flop me on my back like a turtle. Luckily, there was nobody around to see this happen and no injury to report.
Towards the end of the Roller Coaster, I found myself on one of the few flat patches and found one of the few scares I had on this hike. The trail curved to the right and through the woods, I could see a large patch of black fur. The fur was moving and I froze. It stopped, too. I am standing there trying to decide what to do, when the fur starts running towards me. I thought I was going to fill my shorts. I start to think about where my bear spray is at, when the fur comes into full few. I could then see that the fur was not a black bear, but a large, black, friendly Newfoundland dog. He was happy to see me and his owners were just a little bit behind him. I learned that my mistaken bear was named Bob. Bob’s owners tried to tell me how bad the rest of the Coaster was. I continued on, and it was tough, but did not quite live up to Bob’s owners warnings, thankfully.
About 7 miles into the day, I stopped at a camp site. This was at the bottom of the hill of where the trail crosses Virginia 605. It was a perfect campsite that had a little creek running beside it. I shared it with a young lady day hiker who had stopped there to read a book. The day had began cool from the rain, but the temperature had cranked up. I had been sweating profusely, so I kept my distance from the lady. I had been drinking lots of water and handled the heat, but I was feeling it. I took my shoes and socks off and put sandals on to let my feet air out while I ate and rested. I went down to the creek to filter water and refill my water bladder. The creek was spring fed, so it was very cold. I stood in the water for a while and let my feet cooled off.
It was about this time that I came to the realization that my food was nothing great, but one thing that had me really looking forward to meal times was the fact that my pack would be losing weight. I figured a couple of pounds a day, which would make any Jenny Craig customer very happy.
The day hiker headed out and I started to try and get motivated to finish the coaster. I only had about two miles left of it and a little more to the next shelter, but this campsite was very comfortable looking. Just as I had myself talked into it, a young couple came down the trail, heading North. The guy started going on about how hard the trail I had ahead of me. He encouraged me to stay right where I was at. It was a good argument, but I still had a bit of daylight left, so I somehow got my feet going down the trail. The good news was that I only had two uphills left
The last few miles were not easy, but did not live up to the guy’s distress. My back and shoulders were starting to holler at me. I got up the first hill and down the other side. The trail started following an old logging road. It was fairly flat and I was motoring along with my head down. I had gone a bit and realized I had not seen any white blazes for a while. I assessed my situation and figured I was off trail again. I backtracked and realized that the trail had turned off the trail and headed straight up the hill. I made it to the top and the end of the Roller Coaster. I yelled a loud profanity towards the Coaster as I topped the hill. I then had about another mile and a little change to make it to the next shelter. When I got to the Rod Hollow Shelter, there were four through hikers staying in the shelter, and two guys that were section hiking together and tenting. The people seemed pretty friendly and there was a good water source, so I called it a day.
The through hikers were two ladies hiking together, a young college guy and a guy probably in his 50’s. The ladies appeared to be somewhere in their 50’s, and their plan was to hike north until cold weather drove them off the trail. They would then finish the rest next year. The college guy was going to hike until he had to be back at college. The last guy had started hiking in Georgia. He had planned on only being on the trail for a week or two. According to him, his feet just kept on moving, and he had sold all his stuff to finance his hike. However, at this shelter, he had decided to get off the trail. I found out that he had met the dog, Bob, and was not a fan. Bob’s owners had showed up at the shelter earlier with Bob still off leash. I did not ask how, but Bob had popped this guy’s air mattress. On top of that, he had realized that he had lost his ATM card. He was going to have to double back a day to Front Royal to order his ATM. He said he was going to see if he could find a way to support himself at Front Royal.
I got my hammock set up and pumped some water. I cooked up my dinner and talked with the through hikers. I tried to talk to the section hikers, but they were the non-talkative types, which was fine. Also, one was having stomach issues. I ate as much as my food as I could, but was not able to finish it. I cleaned up, checked in with the wife and kids, and passed out within minutes of laying down.
Third Day Recap: 10.1 Trail Miles, about 1.5 miles extra. Around 15 hikers seen on the trail.
I got up early and got breakfast going. I gathered with the through hikers at the picnic table by the shelter. Except for the one guy heading back to Front Royal, they were all headed North and most were hoping to get to the Bears Den Hostel. They were looking forward to hot showers and clean laundry. My tales of Ben & Jerry’s motivated them even more. They headed out and I had my usual low motivation to get started. At about 9 am, I headed down the trail, with the only people left at the shelter were my fellow section hikers. I bid them farewell and I was up and going.
This beginning section was not too bad. I made decent time starting out, but my back was reminding me to stop occasionally and stretch it. Walking by yourself gives you plenty of time to let your mind free flow. Even though I have only attempted yoga a few times, the Warriors Pose popped in my head as I was trying to think of ways to stretch out my back. At my next stop, I was pleasantly surprised that it helped immensely. It became a habit at each stop, along with using a handy tree to offer resistance to stretch in different directions.
After about three miles of varying terrain, I started a long uphill of about three miles. The first half was fairly steep and the second half eased up a bit. However, it was through a meadow, so no shade. The sun was very warm, so I was downing water to try and stay cool. My sweat glands were working overtime. At the top of the hill, I stopped for a break and a snack at the Sky Meadows State Park. There was a nice view and according to my trail guide book, I could walk two miles to the park HQ, where there was a soda machine. Let me be more specific, a cold soda machine. It was tempting, but not enough to walk four miles round trip.
After Sky Meadows, I had two miles of gradual downhill. The main thing I remember about this section was that there were a ton of spider webs across the trail. These spiders were very industrious, too. A few times, I would pass someone going the other direction. I would get a couple of minutes of no webs in the face and then they would be back again. I give them credit for spinning their webs quickly, but got tired of getting that goop in my face. I walked with my walking sticks held up in front of me most of the way. I made it to Dicks Dome Shelter and stopped for lunch and to refill my water. My back was very happy to have the pack off for a while.
After leaving Dicks Dome, I had a decent uphill, then a flat, then a steep uphill and finally a very long downhill that took me to Manassas Gap Shelter. The next shelter was only 5.5 miles further up the trail, but I called it quits here today. My back had had enough. At this location, there was one tent pad on the west side of the trail, then the shelter, spring, privy and other pads on the east side. There was a group of young men at the lone pad. Something set off my low-level internal warning system, and I set up my camp with plenty room between us. We ended up being the only ones there for the night. I heard them a couple of times and then I was asleep and heard nothing else all night.
Fourth Day Recap: 12.9 Trail Miles, about .75 miles extra. Only around 6 hikers seen on the trail.
I got up the next day, got breakfast prepared and devoured. I just wanted to mention that my back was bothering me during the day and evening, but felt fine in the mornings. I think the hammock worked well for comfort and support. I saw some of my neighbors a couple of times. They were not moving any faster than I was. Once again, it seemed like it was 9 am before I got out on the trail.
I start out walking on a very nice downhill. I only had one issue. I am walking along and I have my phone in my pocket. I think it is turned off, but it starts talking to me. It takes a second for me to realize that the phone is saying “Hello, this is the 911 call center. What is your emergency?” Holy crap. I dig for my phone and try to answer it. They do not appear to hear me. A few seconds later, the phone rings and it is the dispatcher calling me back. I try to answer again, but once again, they cannot hear me. I start thinking and there are two things I do not want right now. I do not want any rescue people dispatched to come find out that I am fine, except for pocket dialing issues. If they track down my home number, I do not want my wife getting a call that I am calling 911. I check my phone and I have a strong signal. I try to call the dispatcher back, but once again, they cannot hear me. I then think that maybe the issue is on their end. I try to call my wife to let her know all is well and if anyone calls from 911, let them know I am ok. I call and I can hear her, but nothing from me. I text her with a full explanation. I text the number the 911 dispatcher called me from, but of course I get an error that this number cannot receive texts. I walk a bit and then get a bright idea. I call my wife and put in on speaker phone. She is able to hear me just fine. (I later googled the issue and it seems my phone has a history of the standard microphone going bad.) I then call the 911 center, apologize profusely for wasting their time, thanking them for their service, promising that I am doing very well, and there is no need for assistance. Part of the weirdness of this, is that I am absolutely sure that I had the phone turned off when I put it in my pocket. While it was bouncing around in my pocket, the power button had to get pushed, my screen had to get swiped, the portion of the screen to make emergency calls had to be activated and finally, when the pop up came up asking “Do you want to make an emergency call?” the yes button was selected. Crazy.
During all this, I walked the 5.5 miles to the Jim & Molly Denton Shelter. This is supposed to be one of the premiere shelters on the trail and I was tempted to stop here. There are real chairs to sit in and relax. The layout is very pleasant with lots of flat space. One item to note, it had the nicest smelling privy that I had experienced on the trail. Wood chips were provide to throw in the hole that were primarily to promote decomposition, but also acted to suppress the overwhelming smell.I applaud whoever hauled in the bag of cedar chips.
I made it there and the guy I had met at the Rod Hollow Shelter was sitting at the picnic table. He was the one that Bob the Dog had popped his mattress and had headed back to get his ATM card replaced. He had made it here, dropped his gear, made it into Front Royal, ordered the replacement card, resupplied at the grocery and returned to this shelter to wait for his card to arrive at Front Royal. He figured he had about three days to wait. His plan was to cool his heels there until the card arrived. He was then torn between staying at Front Royal and looking for a way to support himself or to try to hitchhike out to Colorado. I ate my lunch and listened to him talk through his options. He also told me that he had seen my neighbors at the Manassas Shelter. He talked to them a bit and was offered a variety of smoking choices that would have made an Amsterdam cafe very proud. I was glad that I kept my distance, but I give them credit. They had not bothered me at all.
There was one let down here. According to the guide book, there is a solar shower at this shelter. I was looking forward to this. My new friend broke it to me that the shower left something to be desired. It was a free standing wooden stall with a wooden floor. It had a large plastic tank on the top for water. It appeared that there was a waterline running up into the tank, but it no longer worked. There was a faucet at the base, so you had to fill your water into something, climb the side of the structure and pour it into the tank. Since there was no bucket available, my choices were limited to my water bottle. It did not have very much capacity. I asked him if he had used the shower. He said that he ended up filling an empty Gatorade bottle and using it to pour the water over himself. I asked him if he still had the bottle. I ended up taking my water bottle and his Gatorade bottle and heading down to the shower. I warned him that there would be some shouted profanity, because it was straight spring water, and I really hate cold showers. This was very cold. I did what I had to do and ended up feeling better afterwards.
Anyway, it was still early in the day, so even though it would have been great to stay, I pushed on after a very long break. I ended up going only 1.6 more miles further, all at a steady up-hill. I could see clouds rolling into my view. I got almost to the top and there was the Colonel Mosby Campsite. It was a very nice campsite, so I stopped. Between the storm clouds and my back barking, it was definitely a good time to end the day.
I had plenty of time to set my camp up, pump more water, eat, and I even got some quality reading time. It kept threatening to rain, but did not really start until after midnight. It stormed a couple of hours with a nice light and sound show, but I stayed dry in my hooch. This was the only night that I ended up being the soul resident at my chosen campsite.
One additional item, this was where I realized that I was not going to make it to the Lewis Mountain Campground like I had originally hoped. I was not making the miles and my back would start hurting a couple of hours into my hike each day. I did not see a big uptick happening in the miles. All that was fine with me, but I started to make alternate plans.
Fifth Day Recap: Only 7.1 miles and nothing really extra. Only 2 or 3 hikers seen on the trail.
With the storm that rolled through, I ended up sleeping in the next day. I was in no hurry to get up. I finally did and the place was damp, but there was no water standing. All my gear was nice and dry.
I did not get on the trail until around 10 am. I started with a short steep uphill, but then I had around two miles of downhill. The trail was not bad except that it was wet. I could not let myself get going too quickly due to the slippery footing. I had made it about ¾ of the way down, when I planted my foot on a rock, but my foot did not stick. My foot shot out and I went down. Luckily, I was able to catch myself with my walking sticks and only ended up with a skinned knee. Without the sticks and with the weight of the pack, I would have probably tumbled a ways.
I cleaned myself up and headed on down the hill. Right when it flattened out, I ran into some sort of youth group on a day outing. I tried to stay downwind of them, but I am not sure I was successful. There is a nice long flat run and then I got to the blacktop that runs into Front Royal. I walked parallel to it and this was nice and flat. I ended up crossing the blacktop and then there were 3+ miles of uphill to pay for my morning of dropping elevation. About a third of the way up, it started raining steadily. It was warm enough that once again, I pulled on my pack’s rain cover, but left my rain gear packed away.
About half way through the rain, I came up on a spur trail that was well marked and well used, but there was nothing in the guidebook. There was a wooden placard that looked like it had a sign on it at one time, but now there was something carved into it. When I looked at it, I saw “HH”. I was curious, but I could see it went downhill a ways. I dropped my pack and went exploring. Walking without a pack after hauling one around adds a bunch of spring to your step. I made it all the way down to the bottom and there was a sign saying this was a 4-H camp and hikers were to report to the pool’s office. I assume a shower was available, but I did not feel like pursuing it. I walked back up the hill and realized the “HH” was a “4-H”.
After about a little over an hour in the rain, I ended up at the Tom Floyd Shelter, just outside of Shenandoah National Park. I was hoping to make it into the park this day, but the next shelter was over 10 miles away. I had talked to the North Bounders, and some of them had run-ins camping in non-designated places in the park. On much of the trail, people are allowed to do their own thing. In the park, there are more people, so there are more rules to maintain some sort of order. Many of them had issues with park rangers, but in retrospect, I think it was more an understanding issue. Whatever it was, after hearing all those stories, I was unsure about trying to camp in a non-standard spot in the Park. Plus, I was wet. Plus, my back hurt. I called it a day.
Here was a bonus about the Tom Floyd Shelter. Once again, it is about the privy. This privy had a split door. So, while you were doing your business, you could swing open the top door and have a nice view of the woods.
This was my shortest day other than the partial first day. There were a guy and a girl through hiking and were grabbing lunch inside the shelter. The guy was from Germany and the girl was from Arkansas. As it stopped raining, they headed on out as I set up my hammock and tarp. I got it taken care of when another hiker showed up. He ended up being a local who wanted to just come out and spend a couple of days in the woods and get away from the hubbub. He had hiked a good portion of the trail previously and his trail name was “Mountain Mike’. I did not stay out there long enough to get a trail name. The great news was that Mike had a container full of homemade chocolate chip cookies and he was sharing.
This shelter was on the hill side. The shelter itself and the tent sites were pretty much dents in the hill. I hung my hammock where one side had the semi flat pad and the other side was the drop off of the hill. I was kind of proud of it, until Mike pointed out that I had a good crop of poison oak growing underneath. Back home, we have a fair amount of poison ivy, but not much of the oak variety. I left the hammock where it was and ended up with only one tiny spot of poison oak on one of the knuckles of my toes.
Mike and I ended up being the only ones there that night, and we got a decent fire started. We shared stories for a while and I headed to my hammock to read for a bit and rest. My back was still not very happy with me.
Sixth Day Recap: Only 6.5 trail miles, and about a mile extra. The daily miles keep going down. Four hikers seen on the trail.
The next morning, I was up fairly early. After breakfast, Mike shoved more cookies on me. It was not a hard sell. As I was about to head out, Mike asked if it was ok to pray for me. This caught me by surprise, but knowing I could always use some help, I readily accepted. With Mike’s request for blessings, I was heading on up. I was touched by his gesture.
There was a short very steep stretch and then I was at the Shenandoah NP self-registration kiosk. I was finally in the park. I got to walk a nice long flat piece of the trail. Along the way, I met a lady from Minneapolis that was out hiking for a couple of weeks while her kids were in summer camp. She was heading North, so I gave her the highlights of my last few days and we had a great discussion of how great the Boundary Waters are in Northern Minnesota. I guess I fell into the “talk your ear off” category here.
After this stretch of flat, I crossed the Skyline Drive that bisects the park lengthwise North to South. The trail pretty much runs parallel to the road. There are ups and downs, but nothing compared to what I had seen previously. I made it to Marshall Mountain and got to see my first Shenandoah grand vista. It was a great place to stop for lunch. If you have never been to this park, the overlooks are fantastic. Growing up and living in a fairly flat place, these are something I truly enjoy and appreciate.
Most of the rest of the day was downhill, and I ended up getting to the spur that leads to the Gravel Springs Hut. Since it was 13 miles to the next one, I stopped. The spur was only a quarter of a mile in length to the shelter area, but it was a steep downhill. When I got there, two tent sites were already taken. One was a south bound hiker that had a goal of doing the whole trail in sections. The other was a dad and daughter who were just there for the night. I pulled out my phone to check in and there was zero service.
After I got things settled, I walked back up the hill to get a signal. This day was Friday, and I checked the weather forecast. Saturday looked great, but thunderstorms called for on Sunday. (A piece of trivia that applies here: the man in the Guinness Book of Records for being struck the most times by lightening is a retired park ranger who worked at this park. It is known for lots of lightning strikes.) I called my wife and the plan was for her to pick me up on Sunday as she traveled through the area to visit her family in the DC area. She had ended up leaving a day early. Since she would be in the area on Saturday and because of the pending storms, I decided to end my hike on Saturday instead of Sunday. It was decided to meet at the Elkwallow Wayside the next day. Also, due to phone battery that died and various coordination, I ended up walking up and down the hill four times.
I got back down the hill the last time, ate dinner, visited with my neighbors and fell into my hammock.
Seventh Day Recap: 10.5 trail miles, and about 2.5 miles extra. Eight hikers seen on the trail.
I got up and had my last breakfast on the trail. For a change, I was the first one out on the trail. Seeing my family again motivated me to get my feet moving a little sooner. It was a beautiful day and a great day to be outside.
Two miles into the day, I made it to the Hogback Overlook. This was on Skyland Drive with a place for cars to pull over and enjoy the view. There were groups of bikers going up the hill. Twenty years ago, I lived in the DC area. One of my favorite things was to drive out to Front Royal and do an out and back bicycle ride on Skyline Drive. I ended up taking a picture with the bikers for old times’ sake. I thought about telling them that I use to be wimpy and would ride a bike up the hill, but now I haul everything on my back. However, I kept it to myself.
I then made it to Rattlesnake Overlook and used this as a place to have a snack. It was a great view and a nice breeze.
Along the trail this day, I came across two impressive piles of bear scat. I saw no other sign of the bears. One thing that struck me as odd is that they had the whole woods to poop in, but had chosen the middle of the trail both times. I took it as a message from the bears that it was time for me to get off the trail.
I made it to Elkwallow Wayside. It was kind of anticlimactic. I was walking, walking walking, and all of a sudden, there is the wayside. They have a park store with souvenirs and limited groceries. They also have a sandwich grill with counter service. I ordered a double cheeseburger, fries and one of their renowned blackberry milkshakes. While I am waiting, I learn that one thing they do not have is cell service. I check with a couple other customers and nothing. They do have a pay phone. I have not used one of those for a number of years, but figure it out. I get my wife’s voice mail and let her know I have made it to the pick up point. I also let her know that there is no rush. Lots of picnic tables and lots of shade. I take my bounty and head to one of the tables. The burger was great, fries I could have left and the milkshake lived up to the entire hullabaloo that I had read. I head back and get a cold soda to top off my meal.
I set and people watch for a while. The southbound hiker I had met at Gravel Springs makes his way through. I talk to a young guy who is through hiking north. I asked him if he wanted my extra food. He is more than willing to take it off my hands. I end up giving him some cliff bars, a box of noodles, chicken in a foil packet, and some trail mix. He was very happy and I was glad to let it go. I ended up pulling out my book and reading it while I waited. I was reading Unbroken: A World War II Story of Survival, Resilience, and Redemption by Laura Hillenbrand. It is a great book and the story will have you questioning every complaint you have ever made.
It took a little while, but my wife and daughters arrived and we had a grand reunion. They hugged me even with my aroma. I had put on a clean set of clothes I had saved, hoping that would help.
Eighth and Final Day Recap: 5.7 trail miles, and about .5 miles extra. Ten hikers seen on the trail.
I had hoped to go about 20 more miles total. Even with the extra day, not sure I would have made it. I was very happy with what I had done and I was very happy to end it here. I appreciate people who hike the whole trail end to end, but that is not for me. I could see doing another week on the trail sometime, but not much more at one time.
There were two things that I was pleasantly surprised about. These were the two things I was most worried about when I realized that I was going to be doing this hike in July: heat and bugs. It got hot, but was manageable. I drank and drank and I kept a bandana handy to wipe my face. I also used a headband to keep the sweat out of my eyes. I was really worried about the bugs. I soaked my clothes in permethrin, and I only sprayed myself with Off at the very beginning. I saw zero ticks and very few mosquitos. That made me very happy. As a bonus, I saw zero snakes.
To give you an idea of food, I pretty much had the same thing every day and I tried to keep it very mild to keep my stomach from rebelling.
Breakfast – Double packet of instant oatmeal with raisins, nuts, ground flax see and powdered milk added.
Dried Fruit
Quart of Gatorade or Tang
Water
Advil
Snack – Cliff Bar
Lunch – 2 x Tortilla with peanut butter, jelly, and granola
Beef Jerky
Quart of Water with electrolytes tab
Finish water if any left from morning walk
Advil
Snack – Payday candy bar and Trail mix
Dinner – Boxed Noodles (For example Lipton brand)
Slice of Spam or cooked chicken in a foil pack
Finish water from afternoon walk.
More water
Advil
During walk- My camelback bladder was 1.5 liters. I would drink a full one in the morning and another one in the afternoon. I made sure to finish it off if any was left at lunch and dinner.
One thing that surprised me was that from what I had read, I was assuming that I would lose some weight. Any weight I loss was negligible. I am assuming that since I was not putting up the through hiker mileage, I just did not burn the calories I thought I would. Looking at this now, one thing that I will probably change next time is adding some protein powder to the oatmeal. Otherwise, I might shrink some of the servings.
To finish this off, here are some random thoughts and things learned:
- Through Hikers would not be good foot models.
- A foot model would never do a through hike.
- When you meet a hiker coming from the direction you are heading, never ask them how the trail was behind them. Either they lie or their perspective from that direction is just too far off.
- When one does not normally eat beef jerky, one should try it before buying it for a hike.
- Listen to your internal warning system.
- Don’t expect to be in trail shape just because you are in above average shape.
- Don’t expect hiking the plains of Missouri to fully prepare you to hike the Appalachian Trail.
- One cannot plan a hike by just looking at a map. Like all great plans, it is only great until the first shot is fired.
- The Appalachian Trail will figure out a new way to kick my butt every day.
I am writing this about 1.5 weeks after my hike. After the hike, I spent another week on vacation at my in-laws. Other than tight legs, I seem to be ok. Once I quit carrying all my belongings on my back, my back seemed to be just fine. Like I said previously, I was happy to have done what I did. I am not sure when I will get out again, but I can see myself doing it again sometime. Hopefully, it will be sooner than later.
For photos of this little adventure go here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/boconorm/sets/72157645760495850/